The American Cheese Society launched “National Goat Cheese Month” in August 1998 “to promote the benefits of [eating] and cooking with goat cheese.” For many, the appreciation of goat cheese is “an acquired taste,” and I must admit I was one of those who needed a bit of nudging before I came to love its tangy/toasty/nutty flavor, one that is generally determined by how long the cheese is aged. I’m particularly fond of Irish goat cheese where there’s no shortage of farms making it and of chefs featuring it on menus from five-star restaurants in Dublin to local pubs. Here are a few recipes that celebrate it.
GOAT CHEESE CROSTINI WITH FIG COMPOTE
Makes 24 Crostini
These little “toasts" are fantastic as a base for canapés, savory spreads, shaved meats, or cheeses. They all start with a baguette or loaf of country bread that’s cut into slices, drizzled lightly with olive oil, and then baked or broiled until brown and crisp. They can be made up to two days ahead and stored in an airtight container until ready to be topped. In Ireland, the crostini are made with Corleggy, a goat cheese produced in Belturbet, County Cavan; St. Tola, a creamy cheese made at Inagh Farmhouse near Ennistymon, County Clare; Blue Bell Falls, made near Charleville, County Cork, and Ardsallagh, from East Cork , to name just a few. Top the crostini with this fig compote or try one of the variations that follow.
For the fig compote
1/2 cup chopped dried figs
4 tablespoons (packed) light brown sugar
1 cup dry red wine
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
Sea salt
For the crostini
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 French bread or sourdough baguette, cut into 24 slices
8 ounces goat cheese
1. Make the compote. In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring figs, sugar, wine, thyme, and salt to a boil; cook for about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to simmer; cook for 8 to 10 minutes, or until mixture thickens. Cool to room temperature; cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. Return to room temperature for serving.
2. Make the crostini. Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Brush both sides of the bread with olive oil. Place on a rimmed baking sheet; toast for 12 to 15 minutes, or until lightly browned. To serve, spread each toast with goat cheese; top with a spoonful of compote.
GOAT CHEESE CROSTINI WITH FIG & NUT SPREAD: Toast bread as above. In a small bowl, combine 3⁄4 cup chopped walnuts, 1/2 cup chopped dried figs, and 12 ounces soft goat cheese. Spread fig and nut mixture onto crostini. Sprinkle with a little chopped rosemary and drizzle lightly with balsamic glaze.
GOAT CHEESE MOUSSE WITH ROASTED BEETS ON CROSTINI: Toast bread as above. In a medium bowl, whip 1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream to soft peaks. In a separate bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons milk and 4 ounces goat cheese; fold into the whipped cream. Cover and refrigerate for up to 4 hours. Spread the mousse onto crostini; top with a thin slice of roasted red or golden beet. Garnish with a sprig of tarragon and a few grinds of black pepper.
BEET SALAD WITH GOAT CHEESE, PISTACHIOS & SHERRY VINAIGRETTE
Serves 4
For the beets
1 1/2 to 2 pounds red, golden, and candy strip beets, washed and trimmed
1 bunch fresh thyme
1/2 cup olive oil
1 cup balsamic vinegar
For the pistachios
1 cup shelled pistachios
1 tablespoon butter
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
For the sherry vinaigrette
1 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/2 shallot, chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 tablespoon dry sherry
1/3 cup sherry vinegar
1/2 cup canola oil
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons walnut oil
Salt
Ground black pepper
For the salad
8 ounces baby arugula
4 slices goat cheese
1. Make the beets. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Put beets, thyme, oil, and vinegar in a baking dish large enough to hold the beets in a single layer; cover with aluminum foil. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, or until tender when pierced easily with the tip of a sharp knife. Uncover; let cool in cooking liquid. Refrigerate the beets for 2 to 3 hours, or until cold.
2. Make the pistachios. Put the pistachios on a baking sheet; toast for 8 to 10 minutes. In a small sauté pan over high heat, melt the butter until lightly browned; transfer to a small bowl. Add the nuts, salt, and sugar; toss to coat. Let cool; store in airtight tin.
3. Remove the beets from the liquid. With gloves to protect your hands from discoloring, peel the beets. Cut in half or quarters (depending on size); set aside.
4. Make the vinaigrette. Combine the mustard, shallot, garlic, sherry, and vinegar in a blender; process until blended. With motor running, slowly stream in oils, one at a time, until the vinaigrette is smooth; season with salt and pepper.
5. To serve, arrange the beets on four plates; drizzle with 1 to 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette. Toss the arugula with additional vinaigrette and arrange on top of beets. Garnish with a slice of goat cheese; sprinkle with the pistachios.
GOAT CHEESE AND VEGETABLE QUICHE
Serves 6 to 8
4 tablespoons olive oil
10 ounces white mushrooms, chopped
5 ounces fresh spinach
10 cherry tomatoes, halved
2 scallions, sliced
4 large eggs
1/2 cup half and half
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Salt
Ground pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, thyme and flatleaf parsley
5 ounces fresh goat cheese, crumbled
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a 9-inch glass pie dish.
2. In a large skillet over medium heat, heat 3 tablespoon of oil. Cook the mushrooms for 3 to 5 minutes, or until soft but not browned. With a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl; set aside.
3. Add remaining 1 tablespoon of oil to the skillet. Add spinach, scallions, and tomatoes; cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the spinach is wilted; stir into the mushrooms. Let the vegetables cool for about 5 minutes.
4. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs, half and half, and mustard. Season with salt and pepper; stir in herbs. Spoon the eggs mixture over the vegetables; top with the cheese. Put the dish on a baking sheet.
5. Bake the quiche for about 30 minutes, or until the top is lightly browned and firm to touch. Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting into slices.
Margaret Johnson’s “Recipes” page also includes “Ireland Hopping: Adventures in Food, Drink, and Travel.” For further details on her work, including how to order her cookbooks, visit here.
