Local artist captures field of rapeseed near Ballycotton, East Cork.
MARGARET M. JOHNSON
Ireland Hopping | Margaret M. Johnson
The dilemma you face when traveling around Cork, Ireland’s largest county, is where to go first — Cork City, East Cork, West Cork — and, of course, where to stay. I easily solved the hotel problem when I visited East Cork last spring and spent time at Castlemartyr Resort in the charming village for which the resort is named.
One of Cork’s most idyllic locations, Castlemartyr (Baile na Martra in Irish) sits on 220 acres of mature landscape with gardens that include a reconstruction of historical, classical parterre beds. The resort has 103 luxurious rooms and suites (11 in the Manor House and 92 in the new wing), great dining, a Ron Kirby-designed golf course, ESPA spa and fitness center, and lots of history. Part-Renaissance, part-Gothic, part-Baroque, the distinctive set of buildings that make up the hotel represent six centuries of architecture, including a large part of the outer wall of a fourteenth century church. From 1930 to 1996, the main building was Carmelite College, a boarding college for boys. Set against the historic nature of the hotel, which opened in 2003, the bedrooms in the new wing are designed in a stunning contemporary style with all the bells and whistles of 21st century accommodations.
The location of the resort itself is unbeatable, but its proximity to all that East Cork has to offer makes it even more desirable. Castlemartyr is less than a 20-minute drive from Cork City; 15 minutes from Midleton, home to the Jameson Old Distillery and a lively Saturday farmers’ market; historic Youghal, said to be where the first potato was planted; and picturesque seaside villages like Ballycotton, Garryvoe, and Kinsale. South of Cork is Cobh, the 19th century port from which “HMS Titanic” set sail on her ill-fated maiden voyage, April 14, 1912. If you visit Cobh, also home to the moving Cobh Heritage Center (The Queenstown Story), you’ll learn, among other things, the story of the more than 2.5 million Irish who emigrated to North America between 1848 and 1950, including legendary Annie Moore and her two brothers. Cobh is also the site of impressive St. Coleman’s Cathedral with its 49-bell Carillon, the only such instrument in Ireland and the largest in both Ireland and Britain. When the hour strikes, the bells peal "Nearer, My God, To Thee" in deference to the courage of Titanic’s orchestra, which played the hymn in its final moments. It’s a wonderful place to stop and reflect upon the significance of Cohb and its role as an immigration hub in the 19th century.
Back at the resort, there are plenty of dining options, and during my weekend stay every venue was buzzing. It was, after all, a weekend when First Communions were being held in nearly every village in East Cork and a number of families celebrated the occasion at the resort. These parties, along with a lively wedding, only added to the Castlemartyr experience. Elegant breakfasts, lavish dinners highlighting modern Irish cuisine, and Lady Fitzgerald’s Afternoon Tea are all served in the The Bell Tower; creative Italian dishes are featured at Franchini’s, where you can dine overlooking the formal gardens or al fresco on the garden terrace; The Knight’s Bar, in the main house, and The Pod, overlooking the golf course, both offer drinks and light fare. Good stuff all around! (Castlemartyr Resort, www.castlemartyrresort.ie)
Castlemartyr Resort.
CHEESE PLATE WITH PLUM AND PEAR CHUTNEY
SERVES 4 TO 6
The Knight’s Bar is the perfect spot for light, informal meals, like a simple-to-assemble plate of Irish cheeses — think Cashel Blue, Milleens, Gubeen, and Ardsallagh — served with a tangy plum and pear chutney siilar to this recipe.
For the plum and pear chutney
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 1/4 pounds plums, quartered, stones removed
2 large pears, peeled, cored, and sliced
1 1/4 cups (packed) light brown sugar
1 1/4 cups sugar
2/3 cups red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground mustard
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon salt
- Make chutney. In a large saucepan over medium heat, heat oil. Add onions and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until soft but not browned. Add plums, pears, sugars, vinegar, ginger, mustard, cinnamon, cloves, and salt; stir to blend.
- Bring slowly to boil, and then reduce heat and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, or until mixture thickens. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. Serve at room temperature.
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MARGARET M. JOHNSON
BEETROOT WITH GOATS CHEESE MOUSSE
SERVES 2
Another delicious starter from The Knight’s Bar is this goats cheese mousse on crostini topped with roasted beets. If you can’t form perfect egg-shaped quenelles, simply spoon the mousse onto the crostini.
For the mousse
1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream
2 tablespoons milk
4 ounces soft goats cheese
Sliced beets for serving
Crostini for serving
Fresh tarragon for garnish
Ground black pepper for topping
- Make mousse. In a medium bowl, whip cream to soft peaks. In a separate bowl, whisk together milk and goats cheese; fold into whipped cream. Cover and refrigerate for up to 4 hours.
- To serve, scoop out 1 tablespoon of mousse, and with another tablespoon, smooth and form it into an egg shape. Top each crostini with a quenelle, a slice of beet, and garnish with tarragon. Sprinkle with pepper.
Margaret Johnson’s “Recipes” page expands this year to “Ireland Hopping: Adventures in Food, Drink, and Travel.” For further details on her work, or to order a signed cookbook, visit www.irishcook.com
MARGARET M. JOHNSON
